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2000 Ford Mustang GT Coupe Bright Atlantic Blue Metallic CC (coke K7) 4.6L, 281ci, 2V SOHC T-45 5-speed Charcoal Leather Seats Engine Kenne Bell 1.7L Supercharger Kenne Bell Cast Alum Intake Kenne Bell Boost-A-Bump Kenne Bell Boost-a-Spark FMS 90mm MAF Kenne Bell Cold Air Kit w/KN Filter Acufab 80mm T/B Kenne Bell Big Tube T/B Kit MAC ProChamber Breed Aluminum Valve Covers Steeda/Borla 2.5” Stainless Steel Catback Dallas Mustang MIL Eliminators Mobil 1 Drivetrain FR500 Deep Dish 18x10" Rear Wheels FR500 18x9" Front Wheels Kumho ASX 295/35 Rear Tires Kumho ASX 245x35 Front Tires Brembo Brakes; 13" Rotors, 4 Piston Calipers, SS lines Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter FRPP King Cobra Clutch FRPP Billet Steel Flywheel FRPP 3.73 Gears FRPP Aluminum Driveshaft Steeda Clutch Quadrant Steeda Firewall Clutch Cable Adjuster Dallas Mustang Speed Cal Suspension/Chassis 2000 Cobra Front A-Arms Steeda X2 Ball Joints Steeda Aluminum Lower Control Arm's Steeda Heavy Duty Upper Control Arms Tokico Shocks and Struts Steeda Off-Set Steering Rack Bushings Kenny Brown Super Sub Frame Connectors Exterior Ford Mach 1 Chin Spoiler Ford Mach 1 Grille Delete Kit FMS Y2K Cobra R Smoked Headlights Xenon Headlights Xenon Fog lights CDC Sequential Tail Lights Pro-Fit Electric Linear Fuel Door Custom Painted Grille Horse Low Profile Antenna Interior Indigo White Face Gauges (Blue light) Steeda Billet Pedal Covers Bullet Mustang Shifter Knob Bullet Mustang Shifter Ring Autometer Dual Pillar Gauge Pod Autometer Boost/Vacuum Gauge Autometer Fuel Pressure Gauge Autometer Transmission Temp Gauge Autometer Fuel/Air Ration Gauge Accelerator Pedal Cable Adjustment |
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My Supplemental Notes to the KB Installation Instructions
My Work Stall: Osan Air Base Auto Hobby Shop. Stall fee
$1.50/hour (0900-1800), $5.00 overnight, all tools and equipment no charge.
Beats the hell out of someone else installing it.
Windsor Block Intake Clearance: This is where you need to grind one
mount back to make room for the new intake. It only affects Windsor blocks
though, not the Romeo's. KB will probably recast the intake to compensate
for this in the future.
Initial installation of the Blower and Intake after torquing.
Notice the cast alum valve covers are already installed. This would be
a PITA with the intake on.
Stock 2000 radiator hose is too short. You need to get a 2001
hose, which is longer and fits right on.
Alternator Clearance: this is where you need to grind down the
alternator housing to make clearances for three things on a 2000; 1) flat
idler pulley 2) new KB lower mount support 3) valve cover bolt/stud. Throttle Linkage Clearances: Two places are of concern; 1) heater hose
2) fuel line. I removed the heater hose from the firewall and cut it
back about 1", which pulled it back from the linkage enough. The fuel
line clip needs to be rotated around so the opening is smack dab in the
middle of the rotating throttle cable linkage. My clip was very tight
and I doubt it will rotate back around on its own, but I will be checking
often for awhile. The way it was after Day 3. I was in no hurry to rush thru this install
due to having to send the PCM computer back to KB. They did not have
my Catch Code on file, so they needed my PCM to download the code before
burning a chip. Shipping back and forth for this from my Korea
location takes at the fastest, 6 days, which it did, so I had time to burn,
thus, took my time.
Vacuum Hoses and wires: this shows how I routed/spliced the vacuum
hoses, covered hoses and wires with convoluted tubing (blue of course), and
a shot of the bypass valve. The top 3 pic are the way the vacuum tee's
should be and are correct. The bottom four pics show how I did them
initially, which was WRONG!
Intercooler and Boost-A-Pump: My pump had to be mounted in this
rotational configuration for the hose on the right side (passenger side
radiator) to mount properly. My kits hoses were already clamped with
the crush type clamps (as shown here), so there was no way to rotate the
hose once it was on the fitting, but the KB instructions show the pump
rotated differently and with no hose clamps installed. Also, I did not
like the way you are supposed to screw a self threading screw UP into that
wire harness, so I used nuts/bolts instead. I laid a screw here just
so you can see how wrong that is... that IS a wire harness after all.
The nuts/bolts are tons better. Notice the electronics box
mounted/splice in the trunk. Running the 'two wire' harness up thru
the car was the toughest part... and those damn PINK connectors! I
hate them. You can see them below in the COMPLETE series. COMPLETE! Not much to say here. This is of course the initial
completion.
13 Oct 2003 Here are some pics taken more recently about 2 months after
the completion.
You can see the Parker Air-Oil Separator I installed in the pcv line to help
keep oil out of the intake. |